The Akita is a large dog weighing between 75 and 120 pounds and up to 28″ in height. Of the Japanese Spitz-type breeds, the Akita is the largest. Pronounced AH-ki-ta in Japan and a-KEE-ta in the western world, the Akita is a powerful, top notch watchdog and protector of his family and territory.
The AKC recognizes Akitas in any color including pinto, white or brindle. Colors are clear and brilliant. All white Akitas do not have a mask whereas other colors tend to have one. The soft, undercoat can be a different color than the outer coat. The harsh, thick outer coat requires regular grooming.
This large, energetic dog is extremely protective of family and territory. For this reason, they might be aggressive to other animal and children that they don’t know if they feel that their territory is being invaded. They do best with older, well behaved children and are not recommended for children who might mistreat or tease them. They should be kept in a fenced in yard and never allowed to roam free. The Akita can be a loving, affectionate dog when properly treated. Early training and socialization is highly recommended for this breed. They require regular exercise and love to be with their family.
The Akita is a native of Japan and dates back to the 1600s to the Island of Honshu. It is the national dog of Japan and highly revered by the Japanese. You can find statues and Akita art throughout the country. Originally used as a military dog, guard dog and hunting dog, the Akita has not lost these watchdog instincts. Helen Keller was the first person in the US to own an Akita.
A breed with such a high instincts to protect and patrol his surroundings makes for an awesome guard dog. Depending on your family dynamics, the Akita may be ideal for your pet companion needs. Those with lots of other pets or small children might want to do more research before bringing and Akita into your home.
bio= Learn more about dogs and dog care at Dear Doggy. You can also visit our Akita page in the dog breeds section of our website for more information.
The Afghan Hound is a medium to large 55 to 65 pound dog that grows to between 24 and 29″ in height. The Afghan Hound has long, silky hair and appears to be both elegant, reserved and agile. But, don’t let the looks fool you. They can run, frolic and play with the best of the dogs.
Afghan Hounds comes in a variety of colors including Black, red, cream, fawn and brindle. Fawn, cream and brindle Afghans typically have a black mask on face or on fringe of ears. White markings are discouraged by the AKC. In contrast to the long hair on its body, the Afghan Hound as a long, thin tail that curls on the end and is covered with short hair. Because of their long, thick hair, the Afghan Hound requires regular grooming.
They are very energetic and affectionate dogs. They get along with children, other dogs and pets, especially those that they know from puppyhood. They do not always get along with cats, especially those that they aren’t familiar with. Some Afghan Hounds can be more on the timid or high strung side, so they are recommended more for older or well behaved children. The Afghan Hound is an ideal dog for homes where they will get plenty of exercise, outside play and where there is ample room to roam and explore.
The breed can date itself back over 5000 years. It is native to Afghanistan. It is a sight hound and was originally used for herding, hunting and as a watchdog. Due to its quick speed, it made an excellent hunting animal to pursue game. It only reached Europe and the United States in the 1900s because its exportation was prohibited. The Afghan Hound is now used mainly as companion, watchdog and hunting dog.
This dog with a dignified air is a loyal and faithful companion. They make good watchdogs and a great companion for an active family that enjoys exercise and play. If you choose an Afghan then plan on a lifetime of love and enjoyment from your new pet.
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Ever wonder what your dog is thinking? Visit our Dog Blog or our Dog website and Forum to find out. You can also visit our Afghan Hound page in the dog breeds section of our website.
The Affenpinscher is a small 7 to 8 pound dog that usually does not exceed around 10 inches in height. The Affenpinscher has bushy eyebrows and shaggy hair and most often is considered to look somewhat like a monkey. Although this certainly is a dog, you might consider that sometimes it is a monkey by the way that it acts.
Affenpinschers look like terriers but they’re actually part of the pinscher-schnauzer subgroup. The common color of an Affenpinscher is black, although the AKC will allow them to be other colors such as gray, silver, and a combination of black and tan but Black is always preferred.
They are very playful and lively. They get along, generally speaking, with other dogs and pets but they can become excitable around small children so they’re not necessarily recommended as a family pet. They often can be territorial when it comes to their food so you might want to take this into consideration as well. That being said Affenpinschers certainly can be a fun pet to own and can provide hours of entertainment.
The breed can date itself back to the 17th century and has European origins. In fact its name is a combination between the German word for monkey and terrier. Originally the breed was a little bit larger than it is now standing about 12 to 13 inches in height, but it had similar colors. Its original purpose was as a ratter, working very hard to to remove rodents from places such as kitchens and stables.
All in all, the Affenpinscher can make a fun and loving pet that can provide hours of fun while it plays and puts on a show for it’s owners. A faithful and loyal breed, the Affenpinscher is a pet to look into having for your family.
Ever wonder what your dog is thinking? Visit our Dog Blog or our Dog website and Forum to find out. You can also visit our Affenpinscher page in the dog breeds section of our website.
The exploitive weight loss industry hopes Americans continue to struggle with their weight!
Let’s look at the facts. The statistics show that over 95% of people on a diet plan will fail and gain the weight back.
There is so much conflicting advice out there about dieting and weight loss. Eat low carb is the latest craze and will no doubt be replaced by something else a few years from now.
The plain truth is that diets just don’t work. You might lose weight for a while, but always seem to gain it back, and then some. Do you see a problem here. I sure do. With so much advice from so called experts out there, why are we so overweight and getting fatter?
I would venture to guess that people are just plain tired of dieting. They’ve tried everything out there, jumped from diet to diet, become frustrated and given up.
What we need is a shift in thinking. A paradigm shift. We need to stop thinking about dieting and start thinking about what foods our body needs to function properly.
Our bodies are wonderful, resilient machines. In order to have optimum health and optimum weight, we need to feed our bodies with the right fuel.
Look inside a typical grocery store. The aisles are filled with processed foods: crackers, cookies, bake mixes, white bread, breakfast cereals, bacon, lunch meat, hot dogs, sugary fruit juices, frozen dinners, margarine, white flour, salad dressings, frozen pizza, cool whip, chips, soda, etc.
What if we took a different approach to dieting. What if we decided to look at food as fuel for our body. It needs fuel (food) to survive and function properly, so why not feed it with optimum fuel. Not fast food, junk processed food like cookies, crackers, most cereals, white bread, hundreds of common grocery foods that are loaded with trans fat and ingredients we can’t even pronounce. Which most have no nutritional value.
Say no to the exploitive weight loss industry, make smart food choices, and you’ll be amazed at how fast the weight comes off!
P.S. You might just have more energy and improve your health!
c Jeff Lugeanbeal - All rights reserved
bio = Jeff Lugeanbeal- Sought after Health and fitness professional, motivational and nutritional coach, is a recognized authority On the subject of weight loss. His Web site, www.worldwideweightloss.com provides a wealth of informative articles and resources on everything you’d ever need to know about permanent, natural fat loss and will help you achieve the body you’ve always wanted.
In the dating world many men and women put their potential partners to a “dog test,” whereby they introduce their date to their dog and see how the dog reacts to the stranger. If the dog reacts badly towards their date then a red flag is waved, whereas if the dog accepts the stranger instantly the opposite holds true. While many people look upon this test in a tongue-in-cheek manner, many dog owners actually do take it seriously. As they probably should!
Many animals, including horses, possess an uncanny ability to detect emotion as well as the inner nature of an individual. Whereas you may be able to slap a forced smile on your face and hide powerful negative emotions such as stress or anger from fellow humans, you won’t find it as easy to fool a horse! In fact I consider horses to be natural truth detectors due to their ability to read a person’s emotional state as well as their sincerity when it comes to a love for equines.
If one of my naturally friendly horses takes an instant dislike to someone out of the blue, 9 times out of 10 I’m going to respect my equine partner’s instincts. Horses generally do not possess vendettas or have reason to target anyone for no real reason - they tend to call them as they see them. If a horse usually takes a liking to visitors but holds a sudden aversion to one in particular, clearly the horse sees or detects something that I may not have initially caught.
When a horse enjoys your company, you’ll know it. When a horse trusts you, you’ll know it. And when a horse actually dislikes you, he will make sure you know it. I often state that the world would be a much better place if people were as brutally honest as horses. But I digress.
A proficient horseman at work should be cool, calm and collected, three essential qualities to maximize the productivity of a training session as well as create an all-around positive aura over human-horse interactions. Keep in mind that you are the horse’s leader, and as such the horse will take his cues from you. If you are agitated the horse will recognize something is wrong and either feel you are angry with him or you are annoyed with something else he cannot detect but probably should be also be concerned about. The horse will not be able to focus on the lesson or your requests well at all, nor will he be able to draw strength from you when he becomes concerned about a foreign object or behavioral request.
It is essential that you try not to visit or work with your horse when you are in a negative frame of mind since these undesirable emotions will disturb your equine partner. Try to take a few minutes, or even hours if necessary, to collect your emotions and clear your mind of life’s daily irritants.
When we see a loved one is feeling down, it often puts a damper on our day too since negativity tends to breed negativity. The same will happen with your horse, so do not underestimate your horse’s ability to detect your feelings.
Visit http://www.alphahorse.com/horse-training.html to view other articles pertaining to horse training.
bio = Jeffrey Rolo, owner of AlphaHorse and an experienced horse trainer and breeder, is the author of the above article. You will find many other informational articles dealing with horse training and care as well as games and other horse fun on his website: http://www.alphahorse.com
The idea of picking up a horse’s hooves can intimidate some owners since a well-placed horse kick would really hurt! Such caution is good, but in reality if you pick up a horse’s hoof properly you provide him with no leverage or ability to kick you. This is a situation where a person’s worst fears can cause him to imagine an incident that is highly unlikely to occur with careful handling.
Here’s how to safely pick up a horse’s hoof:
Starting with the front hoof, approach your horse diagonally from his front so that he clearly knows you are there - you don’t want to surprise him. Place yourself even with his shoulder and make sure to face his rear; you will both be facing opposite directions during the hoof picking process.
Making sure that your feet aren’t too close to the horse’s hoof, start running the hand parallel to him down his shoulder and along the length of his leg, finally stopping just above his ankle. Gently grasp the ankle portion and click (or otherwise verbally cue him) to ask him to raise his leg. If he’s well trained, that small cue will be more than enough and he’ll do just what you requested. You’re now free to begin picking his hoof.
If your horse is being a bit stubborn or hasn’t learned how to pick up his legs yet try leaning into his shoulder as you run your hand down the back of his cannon bone. You can also gently squeeze/pinch the tendons to further cue him to what you would like. As you perform these physical cues make sure you provide a verbal one also (I make a clicking sound) so the horse later associates your sound with the requested response. Increase the weight you push against his shoulder until he finally lifts his leg as requested.
When picking a horse’s hoof you want to remove all debris from the hoof clefts as well as the rim and frog. Be careful around the frog because it can sometimes be a bit sensitive, particularly if the horse has thrush.
Once you have finished cleaning the front hoof carefully guide it back to the floor; you don’t want to allow the horse to slam it, potentially hitting your foot in the process. Praise your horse and pat him on the front shoulder a bit so he understands that you are pleased with his cooperation, then run your hand along his back to his rear leg. Place yourself in the same position as you did with his front leg and do the process over again.
There is a slight difference between lifting a rear foot and front foot, even though your basic positioning and actions are nearly identical. When you lift your horse’s rear foot he will probably give a little jerk that you might misinterpret as a kick. This is a common reflex reaction among horses and nothing for you to worry about.
Secondly, when you raise your horse’s rear leg you’ll want to step into him a bit so that your hip is underneath his leg. Rest his leg on your thigh, grab his hoof and gently flex it upwards. By doing this you lend him some support and more importantly the position of his leg and his flexed hoof will prevent him from being able to kick you.
Clean the hoof, lower it cautiously as you did the first and praise him. Congratulations - you’re halfway done! The opposite side will be done exactly the same way, but try to return to his front and start the opposite side rather than move around his rear. It’s bad practice to approach or circle all but the most trusted horses via the rear in such close quarters since a horse would be within range to strike.
When lifting any hoof try to make sure your horse is properly squared (balanced evenly on all four legs) so that when you lift one hoof he can easily balance on his remaining three. At no time should the horse actually lean his weight on you! Even when you rest his rear leg on your thigh you’re not allowing him to use you as a crutch.
Once you have picked your horse’s hooves a few times it will probably become very simple and take less than 5 minutes to clear all hooves. Most trained horses will raise their hoof for you the moment they feel your leg run down their leg.
It is a very good idea to control your horse’s head while you are picking his hooves. This can be done by attaching his halter to crossties or asking a partner hold your horse’s head. By controlling his head you ensure your horse can’t move away from you while you’re trying to pick his hooves, or worse. turn around and take a bite at your rear!
bio = Jeffrey Rolo, owner of AlphaHorse and an experienced horse trainer and breeder, is the author of the above article. You will find many other informational articles dealing with horse training and care as well as games and other horse fun on his website: http://www.alphahorse.com
The following is a guide to feeding and training a racing greyhound. It should be used as a basis, or starting point if you like, to feeding and training your racing greyhound.
Morning routine:
Exercise … a ½ to 1 mile walk followed by a free gallop in a paddock or large yard.
Many trainers now use parallel galloping runs about 110 yards long and 6 to 8 yards wide. Large training establishments have 10 or more such runs alongside each other. The dogs go into the yards one to each yard, and work against each other for about 10 minutes each morning.
After their exercise they go back to the kennels for a quick rubdown, a drink of electrolytes, with maybe some glucose and a touch of milk added, Vitamin C, E with selenium and a 4×2 dog biscuit.
Later in the morning any known injuries are treated with Ultrasound, Magnetic Field, or Laser as needed.
At about Midday they are let out for an empty.
Any trips to the Vet are done in the Afternoon, with an evening walk of about ½ a mile at 3 to 4 pm, followed by feeding the main meal of the day.
Evening Feed.
For protein you should feed raw beef… 1¼lb to 1¾lb depending on the size of the dog, with kibble or wholemeal bread for carbohydrates. The beef should have about 5-10% fat. If you are feeding lean beef, you’ll need to add some lard to the meal. Add some fine grated carrot, celery and parsley and maybe some garlic. Vegetables are needed for Vitamins, minerals and to add fibre and roughage to the diet. If feeding veggies raw, they need to be fine minced, I use a kitchen whiz for this… a handful of minced vegetables to each dog.
Racing Greyhounds need a vitamin and mineral supplement added to their diet to ensure they are getting what their body needs to cope with the stress of a racing.
Cook up a stew once a week for variety… use beef, roo, mutton, chicken or whatever is local and cheap. Add carrots, cabbage greens, celery, parsnips, swedes, a little parsley, and some garlic.
Take your dog out to relieve himself late in the evening, before settling down for the night.
If the climate is cold, you should rug your Greyhound, especially at night, as they have a fine coat, and little to no body fat to keep them warm.
Greyhounds are one of the oldest dog breeds known to man, with records tracing back over 8,000 years, in the form of cave drawings. The pyramids of Egypt contain numerous artifacts and wall drawings of greyhounds, in fact they were often buried alongside their masters, in the same tomb.
Nobody can say for sure how they came to be named ‘greyhounds’, but the suggestion that they used to be mainly gray in color is a lot of phooey in my opinion. I say this due to the fact that gray (or blue) is a shade, and not a true color. When mating blue dogs with other colors, the blue tends to breed out… in other words it is not a dominant color.
Another suggestion is that the name greyhounds comes from the old English words ‘grei’ meaning ‘dog’ and ‘nundr’ meaning ‘hunter’. Regardless of the origins of the name, the greyhound of today doesn’t look to be a lot different to the drawings of the dog many thousands of years ago.
Greyhounds have always been bred to hunt, and like as not, the origins of the breed lie in the fact that early man needed a means of catching small prey for food. I think the logical extension of this is that these dogs we call greyhounds, were bred by natural selection by early man to catch his food, with the breed later being refined by the Egyptians about 4,000 years ago, also for hunting. Then the nobility and landed gentry of Europe and England further refined them to give us what we know as coursing dogs.
In the last 80 years we have further refined the breed to suit circular track racing, to the point where the racing greyhound of today, is probably about 10% faster over a ¼ mile than it was in the early 1900’s.
There can be no doubting that this has been at the cost of the breed losing the stamina of our early coursing hounds. The fastest breed of dog, they can cover a ¼ mile in under 24 seconds, reaching speeds of over 40 miles an hour. They are a graceful, agile, gentle natured dog, the males standing about 28 to 30 inches tall and weighing 65 to 85 lbs, with the bitches being about 2 inches shorter and 10 lbs lighter.
The greyhound is built for speed, with a streamlined, muscular body. The neck is long and arched, the head is fine and long. They have characteristic rose ears, usually folded flat against the neck when the dog is relaxed. They will prick forward and may stand almost erect when the greyhound is interested in something. The chest is deep, the loin arched and the waist narrow, giving the dog a very distinctive appearance.
They have a fine short-haired coat, which can be any color from white through fawns, brindles to black, including party colors.
They have a gentle disposition, even though they are a hunting dog. They make an ideal pet if their size is not an issue. They don’t take a lot of looking after… a ½ mile walk in the evening is adequate exercise if they are not overfed. Whilst they are easily trained to chase, they are not so easily trained to obey ‘normal’ dog commands, unless their training starts at an early age.
Care must be taken to keep greyhounds on a lead in public, as they tend to lose their footing on manmade surfaces when running, due in main part to their speed. But let them loose in a field or enclosed paddock, and their speed and gracefulness will leave you speechless.
This is what you should do if you are a novice greyhound trainer:
- buy all the book’s on Greyhound Training that you can find.
- read all the topics you can find on this web site, on training and feeding racing greyhounds
- befriend the best greyhound trainers you can find in your local area, and offer to help them with trialing, race night handling, feeding, looking after their pups etc.
- and most importantly, “Listen with your ears, not your mouth”. You have two ears and one mouth for a reason. If you want to learn, you should only use your mouth for eating, laughing and asking questions.
Can cats and dogs live together without constantly being at war? It seems that they very often can.
We often hear people claim to be a “cat person” or a “dog person”, but browsing through the various pet forums it appears that there are many of us that equally like both cats and dogs.
My son has a beautiful Border Collie who was the only pet of the house until she was five years old. Then three part Burmese kittens were brought into the family. Mollie the Collie and the kittens were introduced to each other slowly, and Mollie was taught that the kittens were not to be harassed. Naturally she was given extra doses of attention and affection, just to show her that the kittens were an addition to the family, and not a replacement for her.
As the kittens grew they soon learned to dominate the dog, after all they are felines and a canine must know its place, besides there are three of them. Often when Mollie is snoozing, or just reclining chilling out, one of the cats will just walk right over her, forgoing the niceties of walking around the dog. Mollie gives the impression that this behavior does not bother her, but sometimes a little sigh of exasperation is heard. Rarely do the cats take any interest in what is in the dog bowl, Mollie on the other hand, will quite often take a sniff of the cats lunch, and if one of the cats is close by it will give a warning hiss.
I don’t think that it can be said that the cats and Mollie are great friends, they never appear to play together. They live together in a state of tolerance, rather than friendship, but the relationship works OK, my son’s house is free of cat and dog fights.
But from reading the posts on the pet forums, many people report that their cat and dog are the best of buddies.
A lady writes that her Boxer and tabby curl up together on the sofa. Another post from an elderly gentleman reports that his Persian often hitches a ride on the back of his Labrador cross. There are many posts about cats and dogs being taken for walks together, stories of felines and canines being absolutely inseparable, even accounts of dogs pining for cats that have passed away.
All this does not imply that any old cat and dog can be thrown together and get on like a house on fire. Some dog breeds are unlikely to put up with sharing their home with a cat. Hounds and hunting dogs, for example may not be a wise choice. Also not all breeds of cat are sociable enough to live with another species of animal.
When introducing cats and dogs to each other do it slowly and make sure that you are in control. Never leave your pets without supervision while they are learning to get along with each other. Feeding your cat and dog in separate places, and at separate times is probably best until they are used to one another.
Remember that two or more dogs are likely to have a pack instinct, and could see a new kitten as prey. If yours is a multi-dog household and you are adding a cat to your pet family, make the introduction one dog at a time. Remember also that it is not only dogs that can hurt cats, frightened cats can inflict nasty scratches to inquisitive puppies and dogs, and a scratch on the puppy’s eyes could be serious.
So can cats and dogs live together as friends? Yes, they can, it may take patience and perseverance on your part, but the result will be worth it.
bio = If you have a pet related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, provided the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this resource box and live link to http://www.best-cat-art.com Cat art posters, art prints, cat calendars and cat collectibles. Great cat gifts for yourself or your cat loving friends.
Nervous cats hide from people, they do not readily present themselves for petting, and may seem downright scared of you.
Probably, this was not exactly what you had in mind when you decided to get yourself a pet. So, is it at all possible for nervous cats to overcome their timidity and learn to trust you? The answer is yes, but you will need patience, patience, and patience.
It is usual for a kitten to be cautious and timid for the first week or so in its new home, but some kitties remain nervous of you no matter how loving and caring you are to them. Kittens that spent the first weeks of their life in the company of humans and other pets, along with the associated sounds and smells, are far less likely to be nervous cats. They will accept sharing their living space with humans more readily, and be more likely to accept petting. Your cat may have had a nasty experience before coming to your home, and is naturally apprehensive of a reoccurrence.
One way to gradually get a nervous cat used to petting is to gently wrap your pet in a thick towel, to prevent it from scratching you, and gently stroking its head. Talk to your cat softly as you do so, and only use a light grip never hold your cat extremely tight. Set aside a time each day to perform this bonding ritual and your shy cat may grow to trust you enough to stroke it without the towel, remember patience pays.
Great results have been obtained by owners of nervous cats by using a pet crate. Cover the sides of the crate with card or a blanket so that your cat can see through the front but still feels protected. Put the litter tray in the crate and perhaps your cats favorite toy. Start by using the crate in a room that humans are not using, but from where your cat can hear the sounds of the house. Then, move to a place where the humans of the house can be seen carrying on their normal activity, talk to your pet soothingly. Gradually your cat may learn that there is no threat to it from you, and you may achieve enjoying your cat’s company outside the crate without any sign of nervousness.
Bribery can often work wonders with nervous cats. Try a offering a tempting healthy treat, if your cat is hungry enough to overcome its fear and stay still to eat its treat, stroke it gently, don’t make sudden movements! You may have to persevere, but often your pet will eventually accept and enjoy your petting.
Never lose patience, and remember that your nervous cat is not rejecting you, it is just an in built protective reaction to something that has given kitty cause to be wary of humans. Love and perseverance will often win the day, and you will be rewarded by your cat’s affection.
copyright 2004 www.best-cat-art.com
bio = If you have a pet related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, provided the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this resource box and live link to:
Here are five easy to use training tips for your new puppy.
1.) Chewing Problems - The most effective solution to a puppy chewing on something he shouldn’t is
to not discipline him, but to simply replace the object that he is chewing with a chew toy and then to raise him greatly for chewing on his chew toy. Positive encouragement is what a puppy will respond to the most.
2.) House Training - The easiest way to house train your puppy is to always take him out immediately after his meal. Wait for him to go. Once he goes, praise him greatly. He’ll soon get the idea that going outside is the correct thing to do.
3.) Playtime - When you are thinking about getting a puppy, make sure you have the appropriate time to give to your dog. Estimated necessary time is about 10-30 minutes for eating (3 times a day), 10-30 minutes for a walk (3 times a day) and about an hour of playtime with your dog. Most people don’t realize the amount of time that a healthy puppy will require.
4.) Dog Crates - Dog Crates can have a positive impact on both the dog and the owner. It’ll give the dog a safe and secure area that is very close the “den” like atmosphere that dogs had in the wild. Once a dog is comfortable with a crate, it’ll allow the owner to safely transport the dog and help to house train a puppy (they won’t want to do business in their den).
5.) Hide The Chocolate - When getting ready for halloween, make sure you keep the candy out of reach of the dog, especially chocolate. Chocolate is very dangerous to a dog. It can make the dog very very sick. If you suspect that your dog has eaten chocolate, you should your veterinarian IMMEDIATELY.
Why is an All Natural and Holistic to Pet Food Gaining Importance?
There is a significant increase in the market share of Natural and Holistic Pet Food, and it is predicted to double over the next five years. But why the sudden increase in our pets health? It seems that as we become more concerned with our own family’s health and what we eat, it’s natural to also be more concerned about what our pets eat, as they have truly have become part of our families. Today, it is now easier to provide a complete healthy meal for our pets. In fact, our pets may be eating better than we are!
What to Expect from All Natural and Holistic Pet Food?
1. Switching to All Natural and Holistic Pet Food, produces substantial results over time. We all are accustomed to using synthetic drugs which can stop symptoms quickly. But, in many cases, the problem reoccurs because it was treating the symptons, not the problem. Holistic Pet Foods provide an environment that allows the body to health itself, not just treat the symptoms. This results in a more permanent cure and a healthier pet.
2. A good, high quality diet is the foundation of your pet’s health. What we find in the market today for our pets, often contain chemical additives that can be detrimental to their health. Many commercial premium foods contain chemicals known to be toxic, as well as low quality meat that is not fit for human consumption. Many of the ingredients are hard to digest, so the nutritional value is diminished becuase it doesn’t reach their bloodstream. An animal’s immune system is worn down over time because of poor diet and the lack of a complete balanced diet doesn’t foster a long life. There has been a significant increase in kidney and liver failures in young dogs and cats that has recently been linked to the amount of chemical preservatives. That’s why the FDA recently recommended the manufactururers of pet food cut the amount of certain chemical preservatives in half. Our pets eat the same food everyday, so the food they eat will have a heightened effect over time on their health, that’s why a good, high quality diet is best for your pet’s health.
Domestic pets are descendents of animals that have been existing in the wild. Many vets feel that pets should eat natural and less processed food. They recommend feeding pets fresh food with some supplements, or choose an all natural or holistic pet food. Your choice is to select the healthiest food for your companion pets.
What is All Natural and Holistic Pet Food?
Of course, we know that the proper mix of protein, vegetables, carbohydrates, and fats are needed for a healthy diet for our pets. Along with the 23 essential amino acids, pets also need vitamins and minerals. But the types of proteins, vegetables, carbohydrates, and fats is what holistic pet food is all about. Holism is the theory that animals should be viewed as interacting, complete entities, that are more than the sum of their elementary particles. Holistic food is naturally balanced, and provides the pet’s body with much more than just the sum of its ingredients. Each ingredient is chosen for not only it’s nutritional value, but also for it’s interaction with other ingredients. In selecting ingredients, manufacturer’s must know how an ingredient aids digestion, and select the ones that provide the most health benefits. Many ingredients are known to be good anti-oxidants, so why not choose an ingredient that has that added value. Then the combination of ingredients as a whole can be evaluated to understand the total value of a complete and balanced diet.
Holistic pet food manufacturers choose the most digestible meats, vegetables and carbohydrates so that the nutrients are almost 100% bio-available, meaning that it actually gets into their bloodstream. If it is a meat that can’t be easily digested, then it just passes through their digestive system, and less is really available. The sources of proteins, vegetables and carbohydrates are just as important as the amounts. We also know that certain meats, vegetables and carbohydrates are prone to produce food allergies, and therefore it makes sense to avoid using those ingredients which are known to have a high incidence of digestive problems or allergies.
Given that we can determine the proper mix of ingredients, it also makes sense that we should utilize the best available ingredients for your pet and avoid using questionable ingredients such as by-products or meat digest. The source of the ingredients should be held to the highest standard of human grade food, and as natural as it can be. That means meat that is free from contamination from animals that were not given steroids, antibiotics or hormones, and to avoid meat by-products or meat digest. Vegetables should be free from pesticides or herbicides. We should avoid known food allergenic ingredients (beef, wheat, or soy), and not use chemicals preservatives, dyes, or genetically modified organisms. Holistic pet foods come as close to organic in nature without any chemicals or drugs, or as we say, “The Very Best for Your Best Friend!”
bio = Fred Ege provides All Natural and Holistic Dog and Cat Food, the very best for your best friend. To learn more about our All Natural and Holistic Dog and Cat Food, go to:
Glassily transparent, the lemon tetra (hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis) could appear to be just a sunbeam flashing through your community tank if not for background elements like plants and driftwood. Another member of the large characin clan, the lemon tetra has a fairly elongated body like its smaller relative the neon tetra and like neons and other characins, the lemon tetra does best if kept in small schools of six to eight fish.
One of the most distinguishing features of the lemon tetra is their large eyes. The upper part of the lemon tetra’s eye is brilliant red, which is a sharp contrast to the yellow pastels it displays in its body colors. Actually, though, the lemon tetra is quite colorful on close inspection. Body coloring is a delicate pale yellow, flanks are silver, and the leading edge of the anal fin is shiny-bright-yellow and sharply divided from the other rays, which are black. In the male, the rest of the anal fin is broad and fringed in black, a characteristic that is missing in the plumper female. As many male characins do, the male lemon tetras also have tiny hooks on their anal fins. Both males and females have the tetras’ characteristic adipose fin, which is also pale yellow in color.
Although omnivorous and able to exist on a diet of flaked food, the pale yellow color of the lemon tetra displays best if the fish’s standard diet is well supplemented with live treats. The lemon tetra is an egg-scatterer. However, breeding can be tricky since females often have a problem expelling their eggs and after spawning, the lemon tetra like many others of its species, is quick to cannibalize its eggs if not removed from the breeding tank. However, eggs will hatch in about 24 hours after spawning. Fry should be fed a live diet and if they survive, they’ll be about two inches long as adults.
Man’s best friend your dog , and you, can go camping and have lots of fun.
Look at it as a walk that doesn’t end, during which he gets to spend all his time with you.
For us campers, it can give us another means of security and another way of bonding.
Things You Need To Do
For those of you who are wanting to get involved in this great adventure with their pet, there are some things you need to do to make this as fun as possible for both of you.
Bring Him Along Slow
First time camping pooches should be shown the wonders of nature slowly.
City or urban dogs need to be brought along slow because of their tender pads on their paws, and they need to get used to all open spaces and wonders of nature.
Start with taking them on some day trips to state, county and conservation Parks
The Great Outdoors
The wide open spaces will help your dog get used to unpopulated areas.
He wll also find new odours and sights in this stress free environment.
Going on nature and hiking trails will also help your dog gain muscle strength and fitness before you go camping.
Being A Responsible Dog Owner
As we enjoy the companionship of our dogs, they become a member of our families.
Going with us on family outings, walks, trips around town, just about everywhere we go they tag along with us.
Thats fine because we care about them so much.
Its not always the same with camp owners who feel dogs are not man’s best friend in their camping area.
They have good reason to be.
A lot of dog owners are not very good in keeping their pets leashed or cleaning up after them.
They also don’t abide by the camp rules the way they should, but many irresponsible dog owners feel the rules don’t apply to them and their dogs.
Of course because of these pet owners , we all suffer, thus there are now many campgrounds not allowing dogs.
Check ahead to see if the campground you’ re going to allows dogs, and if so, are they allowed on the trails, or have special trails set aside for dogs.
Also some campgrounds charge two dollars a night for dogs as well.
Taking Care Of Your Dog
As loving, caring, pet owners, we need to find a way to take care of our dogs while we go out on the trails with our other family members.
We could take turns dog sitting with family, friends, other campers with dogs.
One thing we need to do is make sure we are good responsible pet owners. Check ahead before you go camping with man’s best friend.
Here Are Some Pre-Camping Tips
Try to take your dog for a pre-camping visit for possible needed shots, and a Rabies shot tag for his collar.
Look at a possible Lyme disease vaccine.
Take with you a current copy of his records and his vet’s phone number.
Pick up a proper dog license & ID tags for your dog with their name, your name, ect.
Microchips, tattoos and pet registries can be used.
Bring medications and a copy of prescriptions.
Try to get a site with some shade for your dog.
Supervise your dog closely around children, other visitors and other dogs.
Keep your dog quiet. Frequent and continued barking disturbs the wildlife and other campers.
Let your dog have time to adjust to his new surroundings. Give him time to rest.
Try to use ziplock bags to pick up after him and properly dispose of it in appropriate trash containers.
Keep an eye on how weather conditions effect your dog, heat, cold, rain etc.
Consider use of a crate for travel and short term restraint, while you are near. Your pet could be stolen if not watched carefully.
You should be aware that your dog will have increased exposure to ticks and fleas.
Take the proper tick/flea collars, repellants or use Frontline applications.
Other diseases can also be transmitted by wild animals and insects.
bio = Val and Robin Shortt are experienced campers and own three outdoor websites For more tips like these and to register for their Free newsletter visit: http://www.goodnightcampingequipment.com
Did you know that more than one million north americans will be bitten by dogs this year, and about one million dog bites will go unreported.
Its sad but most of the victims will be children. These dog bites will come from animals known to them. Unleashed dogs will account for most of the bites inflicted.
What Makes Dogs Bite
Not being educated and pet owners not being committed on training their pet is what leads to most of these dog bites. We must realize that dogs don’t normally become a part of our families already trained.
Why Then Do Dogs Bite?
1.They will bite if scared, angry, or threatened. Even a dog thats friendly will bite.
2.If he feels he’s cornered or crowded.
3.They will protect what they think belongs to them. Like their food, toys.
4.Dogs will protect their space such as sleeping area, yard, porch, cars and home.
5.Dogs are predatory by nature and love to chase and attack.
6.A stray dog may feel upset being lost or hurt and bite with alot less provocation.
7.A dog being startled may lash out and bite.
How to Prevent Bites
8.Teaching young children to be careful around pets. Don’t allow children to play rough or allow pupies to bite. Not even play biting.
9.Teach your children never get close to strange dogs.
10.Leave a dogs things alone like food, toys, bones, ect.
11.Most injuries are caused by getting too close to a dogs face with your own.
12.Refain from running past a dog. They love to chase. Avoid getting a dog excited or aggressive, by yelling and screaming.
13.You never want to pet a dog thats eating, sleeping or careing for its puppies.
14.Stay away from dogs that are tied up or in cars.
15.You should always ask permission from a pet owner to pet his dog. Even if he’s present and the dog’s on a leash.
16.Refrain from swinging your arms or things you have at a dog. It may think its an invitation to bite.
17.You should never pet stray dogs or ones running loose.
Its great to have a dog go on a hike or walk on a trail with you but we humans need to treat dogs with respect. Just remember to teach your children how act around dogs, it will keep them safe.
Val and Robin Shortt are experienced campers and own three outdoor websites For more tips like these and to register for their Free newsletter visit: http://www.goodnightcampingequipment.com
It is very certain that there is no guarantee that your dog
will never bite someone under any condition which you may
not even predict. However, you can reduce the risk attached
to dog bite. The popular saying is that prevention is
better than cure.
Since prevention of dog bites is not the responsiblity of
dog owners alone, here we will be discussing preventive
measures the prospective dog owners, dog owners, parents,
and general member of the public can make instant use of.
Preventive measures applicable to potential dog owners
The first thing you must do before you think of bringing in
a dog to your househood is to first evaluate your
environment and your lifestyle.
Though their is no breed that will not under any condition
which you may not predict, however it is still very
important for you to consult professionals like
veterinarian, dog behaviorist and breeder to determine the
breed that will be suitable for you, your family and most
especially that will be suitable for your environment.
Obtainning breed specification will help you alot in
avoiding any possible future trouble.
Prospective dog owner should not buy a dog that is bellow 8
weeks of age. Puppy bellow this age will not have the
opportunity to learn bite inhibition from his litter mate at
all.
Buying dog that is above 4 months is a bit risky to be
introduce to your home as you may not predict the dog
behavior. However, if you are to buy older dog at all make
sure that you did not purchase a do with any history of
aggression.
If any of your children exhibit any fear or apprehension of
dogs, make sure you delay bringing in a dog. You should know
earlier if you seek your children’s opinion during your
evaluation of your environment. However, if your child is no
yet 6 years of age it is adviciable to hold the purchase of
large dog.
Preventive measures for dog owners
According to Human Society of the United States resports
spayed and neutered dogs are three times less like to bite.
Thus is is highly essential for you to spay and neuter you
dogs. Doing this will reduce their frequent aggressive
tendency.
As a dog owner it is very important that you socialize your
dog. If you socialize your dog well it will be much likely
you will experience dog bite. Socializing you dog help boost
it’s confidence and reduce it’s been nervours or frightened
under normal circumstances.
So socialize your dog very well by introducing your dog to
your member of family, other people, and experiences that
could possibly course nervousness and fear biting in future.
Do this and make it feel at ease with people and other
dogs.
Dog training will also help you in preventing dog bite. You
have to learn proper training techniques by attending dog
training class. Attending these classes will help you
socialize your dog. Train your dog to respond to some basic
comands such as “stay, “leave it” and “come”. Also train you
dog to drop his toys on command . If you don’t do this you
will have to retrieve it from his mouth. Thus taking risk of
your finger been bitten.
